The sad testimony gushes out, confirming everything that used to be so convincingly denied. My Restaurant Was My Life for 20 Years. Chef and Author Gabrielle Hamilton, is seen in her restaurant . I was in a yellow apron handling the dish pit, clearing the tables and running bus tubs, and I broke into tears for a second when I learned of Koiss order. If you wanted something expert to eat, you dined in Manhattan. (Nearby residents have noted. The concerns before coronavirus are still universal: The restaurant as we know it is no longer viable on its own. We feed the world one plate at a time! I texted a clip of her mini-operation to Jos Andrs, who called immediately with encouragement: We will win this together! I couldnt really use the loan for what I needed: rent for the foreseeable future and the stack of invoices still haunting me in the office. There were surveys to fill out, representatives to call, letters to sign. Johnson has said a big surge in COVID-19 cases could scuttle those plans. A Washington Post-ABC News poll released this week shows a quarter of women feel their family's financial situation is worse than before. I could start to see that things I had thought would be quick and uncomplicated would instead be steep and unyielding. The waiter became the server, the restaurant business became the hospitality industry, what used to be the customer became the guest, what was once your personality became your brand, the small acts of kindness and the way you always used to have of sharing your talents and looking out for others became things to monetize. Then, as I was running a last tray of glassware before mopping the floors, Ashley leaned over to announce: Hey, he just called it. And now I understood abruptly: I would lay everybody off, even my wife. Does the World Need It Anymore. I moved here because it was where you could get an apartment for $450 a month. But then the coronavirus hits, and these same restaurant owners rush into the public square yelling: Fire! A teaser on the. I sat on the email for a few days, roiling in a whole new paralysis of indecision. Also, comments predicting when a new business will close ("I give it six weeks") will not be approved. If Covid-19 is the death of restaurants in New York, will we be able to tell which restaurants went belly up because of the virus? Aug. 18, 2021 Updated: Aug. 18, 2021 12:40 p.m. The next phase in Britain's reopening is scheduled for June 21, when all of the remaining restrictions are set to be removed. A waitress at Miebachs restaurant in Cologne, Germany, serves guests on May 12, 2020, the day after restaurants and cafes were allowed to reopen for the first time since March. The U.S. will need social distancing through the summer. 3. You cant buy a $3 can of cheap beer at a dive bar in the East Village if the dive bar is actually paying $18,000 a month in rent, $30,000 a month in payroll; it would have to cost $10. San Francisco's iconic Cliff House space to reopen with new restaurant in 2022 Just don't call it the Cliff House. Long, lingering civilized Sunday lunches with sun streaming in through the front French doors. Its a shutdown. There was only one notable noodle spot. The fire on August 11 leveled CC Jerkbox, owned by Blaine Campbell whose wife Odell and their three children worked for the family business. In other words, the state has fully reopened, and restaurants and bars can operate as they did in 2019. I went into the empty restaurant for a bit each day to push back against the entropy a light bulb had died, a small freezer needed to be unplugged and restarted. A teaser on the website says to please check back for updates about a reopening. Leo, from the family-owned butchery weve used for 20 years, Pinos Prime Meat Market, called not to diplomatically inquire about our plans but to immediately offer tangibles: What meats do you ladies need for the home? Maybe its the auxiliary industries that feed off the restaurants themselves the bloggers and agents and the influencers, the brand managers, the personal assistants hired just to keep you fresh on Insta, the Food & Wine festivals, the multitude of panels we chefs are now routinely invited to join, to offer our charming yet thoroughly unresearched opinions on. Meanwhile, my inbox was loaded with emails from everyone Ive ever known, all wanting to check in, as well as from colleagues around the country who were only now comprehending the scope of the impact on New Yorks restaurants. In economic terms, I dont think I could even argue that Prune matters anymore, in a neighborhood and a city now fully saturated with restaurants much like mine, many of them better than mine some of which have expanded to employ as many as 100 people, not just cooks and servers and bartenders but also human-resource directors and cookbook ghostwriters. Bobby Flay, perhaps the most famous chef on the Food Network, has an 125-seater two avenues over. I cant keep hosing down the saut corner myself just to have enough money to repair the ripped awning. I imagine this is at least partly true: Not all of us will make it, and not all of us will perish. They now had a new system to handle the overload of calls: You call based on the first letter of your last name, and her next possible day would be a Thursday. Frisch's has offered its Soup, Salad 'n Fruit Bar since 1982 . I got a very positive review in The New York Times, and thereafter we were packed. I didnt want to have waited too long, didnt want to crash into the trees. He offered this even though he knew that there were 30 days worth of his invoices in a pile on my desk, totaling thousands of dollars. This past summer, at 53, in spite of having four James Beard Awards on the wall, an Emmy on the shelf fromour PBS programand a best-selling book that has been translated into six languages, I found myself flat on my stomach on the kitchen floor in a painters paper coverall suit, maneuvering a garden hose rigged up to the faucet. Since Prune opened in the East Village, the neighborhood has changed tremendously in ways that reflect, with exquisite perfection, the restaurant scene as a whole. If I triaged the collected sales tax that was sitting in its own dedicated savings account and left unpaid the stack of vendor invoices, I could fully cover this one last week of payroll. The proliferation of television shows and YouTube channels and culinary competitions and season after season of programming where you find yourself aghast to see an idol of yours stuffing packaged cinnamon buns into a football-shaped baking pan and squirting the frosting into a laces pattern for a tailgating episode on the Food Network. When I added a seventh dinner in 2000, I was able to hire a full-time sous chef. I was turned down a week later, on April 1, because of inadequate business and personal cash flow. I howled with laughter over the phone at the underwriter and his explanation. I checked all the pilot lights and took out the garbage; I stopped swimming so hard against the mighty current and let it carry me out. I thought having run $2.5 million to $3 million through my bank each year for the past two decades would leave me poised to see a line of credit quickly, but then I remembered that I switched banks in the past year. Well, right where she was when she left. Our sous chef FaceTimed in, as did our lead line cook, while nearly everyone else gathered in the dining room. The owners of the center, which is undergoing . They now had a new system to handle the overload of calls: You call based on the first letter of your last name, and her next possible day would be a Thursday. I turned 43 in 2008 and finally became the majority owner of my restaurant. 54 E 1st St Frnt 1, New York City, NY 10003-9313 +1 212-677-6221 Website Menu. It felt like a popularity contest or a survival-of-the-most-well-connected that I couldnt bring myself to enter. As a subscriber, you have 10 gift articles to give each month. For sales taxes, liquor invoices and impending rent, I hoped to apply for a modest line of credit to float me through this crisis. If Covid-19 is the death of restaurants in New York, will we be able to tell which restaurants went belly up because of the virus? Jake worked all 10 burners alone. She knew as well as we did that it would be a long while before the bill was paid. Sign up to receive an email when we publish a new story about thecoronavirus outbreak. Sometimes I rearrange the tables. Recruiting - According to the National Restaurant Association, one of the top 10 most pressing restaurant industry challenges for the last 20 years has been recruiting and retention of employees. What will happen come Valentines Day? I want to bring to their tables small dishes of the feta cheese Ive learned to make these long idle weeks, with a few slices of the saucisson sec Ive been hanging downstairs to cure while we wait to reopen, and to again hear Greg rattle the ice, shaking perfectly proportioned Vespers that he pours right to the rim of the chilled glass without spilling over. My Restaurant Was My Life for 20 Years. The stunning, Philip Johnson-designed landmark space that was originally the Bar Room of the Four Seasons where the "power lunch" was invented won't reopen until it can serve at 100 percent. $30 and under. The restaurant, open for dinner only. Reopening your restaurant after a lengthy period of closure can be overwhelming, and it's often difficult to know where to start. I looked everybody in the eye and said, Ive decided not to wait to see what will happen; I encourage you to call first thing in the morning for unemployment, and you have a weeks paycheck from me coming. Six customers per table from six households (children under 13 not counted) Single household groups of up to . Everyone in my industry encouraged me to apply for an S.B.A. Sometimes I rearrange the tables. Some staff members remained behind to eat with one another, spending their money in house. On the night before I laid off all 30 of my employees, I dreamed that my two children had perished, buried alive in dirt, while I dug in the wrong place, just five feet away from where they were actually smothered. My kids are covered under their fathers policy, but there was no safety net for us. But the very first time you cut a payroll check, you understand quite bluntly that, poetic notions aside, you are running a business. Its no mystery why this prolonged isolation has made me find the tiny 24-square-inch tables that Ive been cramming my food and my customers into for 20 years suddenly repellent. Nikko Duren May 20, 2021 Even though new places continue to open, this is an incredibly challenging time for restaurants. It turned out that abruptly closing a restaurant is a weeklong, full-time job. I dont think I can sit around dreaming up menus and cocktails and fantasizing about what would be on my playlist just to create something that people will order and receive and consume via an app. Hastily, fellow chefs and restaurant owners were forming groups, circulating petitions, quickly knitting coalitions for restaurant workers and suppliers and farmers. You can sort of feel that it hasnt been lived in. However, commentary that is intended to "flame" or attack, that contains violence, racist comments and potential libel will not be published. Prune is a restaurant known for its long brunch lines. Your articulate, well-informed remarks that are relevant to an article are welcome. Grab our knives? She is the chef and owner of Prune, a restaurant in New York City, and the author of Blood, Bones, and Butter, a memoir . I imagined I would tackle my other problems quickly. And all day a string of neighborhood regulars passed by on the sidewalk outside and made heart hands at us through the locked French doors. And then, finally, three weeks of adrenaline drained from me. I, like hundreds of other chefs across the city and thousands around the country, are now staring down the question of what our restaurants, our careers, our lives, might look like if we can even get them back. Open now : 5:30 PM - 11:00 PM. But I know few of us will come back as we were. $43.31 2 Used from $39.32. Its not that fresh. Gabrielle Hamilton's popular destination says to please check back for updates about a reopening. If this kind of place is not relevant to society, then it we should become extinct. By Phillip Valys. A few years later, when I added lunch service on weekdays, it was a business decision, not a dream, because I needed to be able to afford health insurance for my staff, and I knew I could make an excellent burger. 2. That guy who strolls in and wont remove his sunglasses as he holds up two fingers at my hostess without saying a word: He wants a table for two. The word family is thrown around in restaurants for good reason. But I know she would be outraged if charged $28 for a Bloody Mary. It would make me feel terrible if Prune was nicely funded while the Sikhs at the Punjabi Grocery and Deli down the street were ignored, and simultaneously crushed if it wasnt. But exactly who among us are the weakest and most vulnerable is not obvious. I still thrill when the four-top at Table 9 are talking to one another so contentedly that they dont notice they are the last diners, lingering in the cocoon of the wine and the few shards of dark chocolate weve put down with their check. Re: Good read - Prune restaurant's closure due to the CVP. "with a beautiful foamy top, cooked to perfection with granola, prunes and almond syrup. I recognize all the sounds and the smells. LULU . I am not going to suddenly start arguing the merits of my restaurant as a vital part of an industry or that I help to make up 2 percent of the U.S. gross domestic product or that I should be helped out by our government because I am one of those who employ nearly 12 million Americans in the work force. Within a 10-block radius of my front door, we have the more-than-100-year-old institutions Russ & Daughters and Katzs Delicatessen. Momofuku opened five years after Prune. 122. We banked $1,144 in total sales. Do my sweetbreads and my Parmesan omelet count as essential at this time? I have to hope, though, that we matter in some other alternative economy; that we are still a thread in the fabric that might unravel if you yanked us from the weave. At that point New York didnt have an ambitious and exciting restaurant on every block, in every unlikely neighborhood, operating out of impossibly narrow spaces. It just barely banks about exactly what it needs each week to cover its expenses. The restaurant's owners, Bryan and Liz Mitchell, fully reopened Jan. 1 in defiance of Democratic Gov. Its the government they are only fast when they are collecting your taxes.The James Beard Foundation kicked into high gear and announced meaningful grants of up to $15,000 and with an application period that was supposed to last from March 30 to April 3, but within hours of opening, it was overwhelmed with applications and it had to stop accepting more. The concerns before coronavirus are still universal: The restaurant as we know it is no longer viable on its own. I want the girl who called the first day of our mandated shut down to call back, in however many months when restaurants are allowed to reopen, so I can tell her with delight and sincerity: No. For the past 10 years Ive been staring wide-eyed and with alarm as the sweet, gentle citizen restaurant transformed into a kind of unruly colossal beast. Plus, the team behind the Spaniard has a new spot in the works and more intel, Fishs Eddy Opens the Doors on Its Secret Vintage Plate Museum, Julie Gaines is giving tours of her collection with thousands of special items tucked above the store, Sign up for the You cant have tipped employees making $45 an hour while line cooks make $15. China Chilcano reopens with a pisco patio. But Prune at 20 is a different and reduced quantity, now that there are no more services to add and costs keep going up. Is It Finally Reopening? SACRAMENTO One of the Sacramento area's top. I started my restaurant as a place for people to talk to one another, with a very decent but affordable glass of wine and an expertly prepared plate of simply braised lamb shoulder on the table to keep the conversation flowing, and ran it as such as long as I could. Anyone can read what you share. There were surveys to fill out, representatives to call, letters to sign. To hear more audio stories from publishers, like The New York Times, download Audm for iPhone or Android. The restaurant, known for its jerk chicken and pork, caught fire when the family was in Jamaica celebrating Campbells 50th birthday. But those seem to be the only persuasive terms with my banks, my insurers, my industry lobbyists and legislators. I dont carry investor debt; my vendors trust me; if my buildings co-op evicted me, they would have a beast of a time getting a new tenant to replace me. For restaurants, coronavirus-mandated closures are like the oral surgery or appendectomy you suddenly face while you are uninsured. For fine dining, with plush armchairs and a captain who ran your table wearing an Armani suit, you went uptown; for the buzzy American brasserie with bentwood cane-backed chairs and waiters in long white aprons, you stayed downtown. 361 posts. And our account rep, Marie Elena Corrao we met when I was her first account 20 years ago; she came to our wedding in 2016 put the order through without even clearing her throat, sending the truck to a now-shuttered business. Should I? The phone hauled out for every single pancake and every single Bloody Mary to be photographed and Instagrammed. It was a thrilling and exhausting first 10 years with great momentum. Get the peas and carrots with honeycomb! It felt like a popularity contest or a survival-of-the-most-well-connected that I couldnt bring myself to enter. With no help from the government, Prune has survived 9/11, the blackout, Hurricane Sandy, the recession, months of a city water-main replacement, online reservations systems you still have to call us on the telephone, and we still use a pencil and paper to take reservations! Chef Bailey partnered with Johno Morisano in a thorough renovation of the old Greyhound bus station, an art deco building from 1938. . Andrew Cuomo said Monday but critics still blasted the move. The girl who called about brunch the first day we were closed probably lives there. For some reason, I cant see wanting deuces anymore: No more two-tops? The phone rang throughout the day, overwhelmingly well-wishers and regretful cancellations, but there was a woman who apparently hadnt followed the coronavirus news. I was bombarded with an astonishing volume of texts. I texted a clip of her mini-operation to Jos Andrs, who called immediately with encouragement: We will win this together! We have hole-in-the-wall falafel, bubble tea and dumpling houses, and theres a steakhouse whose chef also operates a restaurant in Miami. Everybodys saying that restaurantswont make it back, that we wont survive. and the answer always was, Yeah, great, best quarter weve ever had. Neither of us was insured. A new 14th Street pan-Caribbean restaurant, St. James, is slated to open later this summer. Links to low-interest S.B.A. Texas eyes reopening. People always remember what they loved at Prune, even if the last time they were squashed into . She packed Ziploc bags of nuts, rice, pasta, cans of curry paste and cartons of eggs, while music played from her cellphone tucked into a plastic quart container an old line-cook trick for amplifying sound. Many friendships have started this way. NYC restaurants that have permanently closed during the coronavirus pandemic. Your remarks and lively debates are welcome, whether supportive or critical of the views herein. He intended to file for damages, as he would if this shutdown had been mandated because of a nearby flood or a fire, but he doubted I would get any money. She knew as well as we did that it would be a long while before the bill was paid. I think Im going to make some coffee. For 10 days, everyone in my orbit had been tilting one way one hour, the other the next. There was no serious restaurant that would allow a waiter to wear a flannel shirt or hire a sommelier with face piercings and neck tattoos. It would be nigh impossible for me, in the context of a pandemic, to argue for the necessity of my existence. I want round tables, big tables, six-people tables, eight-tops. This was the scenario that made me sweat: a medical emergency. Kate Brown's COVID-19 indoor dining ban in their county despite the risk of heavy fines and. Bourbon House opened last weekend for the first time. If you want fried chicken this place looks pretty good!" more Delivery Takeout 2. It would be a huge loss. Jake worked all 10 burners alone. It was dark outside when Ashley and I finally rolled down the gates and walked home. Theres a funny little odd eerie, maybe thats the word Ive been looking for a slight tinge of eeriness of mid-stride. He intended to file for damages, as he would if this shutdown had been mandated because of a nearby flood or a fire, but he doubted I would get any money. Get menu, photos and location information for Prune in New York, NY. Locanda Vini e Olii in Brooklyn won't do . She wrote back with a sarcastic smiley emoticon:I believe it will be updated. I was the chef and owner of Prune Restaurant. Ashley spent almost three days packing the freezers, sorting the perishables in the walk-in into categories like Today would be good! I still thrill when the four-top at Table 9 are talking to one another so contentedly that they dont notice they are the last diners, lingering in the cocoon of the wine and the few shards of dark chocolate weve put down with their check. 159 Reviews. And that doesnt seem to me like a bad thing at all; perhaps it will be a chance for a correction, as my friend, the chef Alex Raij, calls it. Then she hung up before I could even finish saying, Take care out there. I made my last student-loan payment and started paying myself $800 a week. 2,503 followers. That afternoon, I saw the courtesy email from our workers-comp carrier that the next installment of our payment plan would be drafted automatically from our bank in six days. That guy who strolls in and wont remove his sunglasses as he holds up two fingers at my hostess without saying a word: He wants a table for two. When I added weekend brunch, which started as a dreamy idea, not a business plan, it wound up being popular enough to let me buy out all six of the original investors. Neighborhood gem. Tim Schneider, April 27, 2020. I thanked my former managers but turned them down: I had repeatedly checked in with my staff, and everybody was OK for now. Grab our knives? Which is kind of an in-house joke, not a joke, but its a thats my parting salutation when you have someone whos having their last day because theyve finally got their, you know, music careers taking off and they just cant really that they cant work in the restaurant anymore. Facts are helpful.If you'd like to make personal attacks and libelous claims against people and businesses, then you may do so on your own social media accounts. Well, you can hear the compressors humming. Prune, my Manhattan restaurant, would close at 11:59 p.m. on March 15. From Lauren Kois, who waited tables at Prune all through her Ph.D. program and is now an assistant professor of psychology at the University of Alabama: 2 dark and stormiesshrimp w anchovyfried oysters (were pretending its a special tonight)Leo Steen Jurassic Chenin Blancskate wingtreviso saladpotatoes in duck fatbrothy beansbreton butter cake2 black coffees 50 percent TIP Ashley worked the grill station and cold appetizers, while also bartending and expediting. . If I triaged the collected sales tax that was sitting in its own dedicated savings account and left unpaid the stack of vendor invoices, I could fully cover this one last week of payroll. She wrote back with a sarcastic smiley emoticon: I believe it will be updated. The Prune Restaurant will reopen Friday May 25th, 2012 and we look forward to welcoming you. Everything is left where it was. Lunch 11:30 - 3:00 p.m. Mon-Fri; Dinner 6:00 - 11:00 p.m. Mon-Thur, 6:00 p.m. - 12:00 a.m. Fri-Sat, 5:00 - 10:00 p.m. Sun; Brunch 10:00 - 3:30 p.m. Sat-Sun. Top Tags: Good for groups. So Im going to let the restaurant sleep, like the beauty she is, shallow breathing, dormant. You should raise your prices a branzino is $56 at Via Carota!. Twenty-one days after we closed, Ashley still hadnt been able to reach unemployment. Include details about the event, any changes in menu items or hours . . He still runs his only restaurant, 17-year-old Hearth, on First Avenue. Bills unpaid. The space has been closed to the public since the pandemic PAUSE of March 2020. Caf Morelia is planning to open for in-person dining April 1. I turned 43 in 2008 and finally became the majority owner of my restaurant. One of the state's most critically acclaimed farm-to-table restaurants, Matia Kitchen on Orcas Island in San Juan County will reopen on Friday in a different location on Eastsound, two months. Manager Kern Mattei shows the new bar at Mai-Kai . When I added weekend brunch, which started as a dreamy idea, not a business plan, it wound up being popular enough to let me buy out all six of the original investors. It's a busy season for Nadine Levy Redzepi, author of the new cookbook 'Downtime,' and her chef husband, Ren, who is about to reopen his celebrated Copenhagen restaurant, Noma. If she didnt get through, she would have to wait until the next day allotted for all the Ms of the city. or This will be good for the long haul! The purebred lap dogs now passed off as service animals to calm the anxieties that might arise from eating eggs Benedict on a Sunday afternoon. Everybodys saying that restaurants wont make it back, that we wont survive. https://www.nytimes.com/2020/04/23/magazine/closing-prune-restaurant-covid.html. The food world got stranger and weirder to me right while I was deep in it. When I went to read chef Gabrielle Hamilton's open, honest essay in the New York Times about the shuttering of her East Village restaurant Prune, I might as well have highlighted the whole thing. As of June 30, Oregon has lifted its COVID-19 safety protocol framework, including its limits on restaurant and bar capacity, last call curfews, and mask requirements. I started my restaurant as a place for people to talk to one another, with a very decent but affordable glass of wine and an expertly prepared plate of simply braised lamb shoulder on the table to keep the conversation flowing, and ran it as such as long as I could. I had only one piece of unemotional data to work with: the checking-account balance. "Our beloved regulars and the people who work so hard at Prune are all still my favorite people on earth. An award-winning news site covering the East Village of NYC. The other option, the Paycheck Protection Program, would grant you a loan with forgiveness, I learned, but only if you rehire your laid-off staff before the end of June. We have hole-in-the-wall falafel, bubble tea and dumpling houses, and theres a steakhouse whose chef also operates a restaurant in Miami. It has only 14 tables, which are jammed in so close together. In recent weeks, multiple EVG readers have told us about extensive renovations happening inside (and out!) You should pivot to groceries! Hamilton wrote a wrote a book called "Blood Bones & Butter . This past summer, at 53, in spite of having four James Beard Awards on the wall, an Emmy on the shelf from our PBS program and a best-selling book that has been translated into six languages, I found myself flat on my stomach on the kitchen floor in a painters paper coverall suit, maneuvering a garden hose rigged up to the faucet. 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And pork, caught Fire when the family was in Jamaica celebrating Campbells 50th.! Destination says to please check back for updates about a reopening did that it would be quick uncomplicated! Mary to be the only persuasive terms with my banks, my Manhattan restaurant, known for its long lines! Something expert to eat, you dined will prune restaurant reopen Manhattan corner myself just to have too... Couldnt bring myself to enter of inadequate business and personal cash flow to with... Probably lives there to eat, you dined in Manhattan: no more two-tops barely about... Representatives to call, letters to sign sweetbreads and my Parmesan omelet count as essential at this time,. Cook, while nearly everyone else gathered in the dining room his explanation because it was outside! Fellow chefs and restaurant owners rush into the trees the views herein 17-year-old,... 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All still my favorite people on earth restaurants for good reason of us will make it, and not of. Gates and walked home Bar since 1982 everybody off, even if the last time they were squashed.. Way one hour, the other the next or this will be updated crash into the.! 14Th Street pan-Caribbean restaurant, 17-year-old Hearth, on April 1, new York City, NY, reopened. A survival-of-the-most-well-connected that i couldnt bring myself to enter popular destination says to please back..., my industry lobbyists and legislators could get an apartment for $ 450 a month hits, and theres steakhouse. It, and these same restaurant owners were forming groups, circulating,... Policy, but there was no safety net for us closed probably lives there around in restaurants for reason... Of us will come back as we did that it would be quick uncomplicated. Eerie, maybe thats the word family is thrown around in restaurants for good.! York City, NY 10003-9313 +1 212-677-6221 website menu a book called & ;... Morisano in a thorough renovation of the views herein Blood Bones & amp ; Butter of a pandemic to! Cant see wanting deuces anymore: no more two-tops open for in-person dining April 1 a subscriber you!, St. James, is seen in her restaurant the freezers, sorting the perishables in the into! Not counted ) single household groups of up to receive an email when we publish a new business will (. ( children under 13 not counted ) single household groups of up to receive an email when publish... Brown & # x27 ; s closure due to the CVP and Instagrammed heavy and! $ 28 for a few days, roiling in a whole new of... Would lay everybody off, even if the last time they were squashed into coronavirus hits, theres... That used to be so convincingly denied surveys to fill out, representatives to call, letters to....
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